Moments of Excellence - BEAUTY

***WELCOME OUR NEW BEAUTY EDITOR, DAWN ADRIENNE!***

BEAUTY: TAKING IT UP A NOTCH
by Dawn Adrienne

LESSON 1 - Foundation

Foundation is the main product used to to create a fresh, clean "canvas" (your face) by evening the skin's tone and also providing blemish coverage. Foundation is to makeup what yeast is to bread. Without it, everything else is flat and lifeless. Many of you may be opposed to foundation because you might have had a bad experience, you don't know how to find your shade, you don't know how to apply it or how to achieve you desired coverage amount. This lesson will address all these concerns.

Types of foundation
Foundation comes in many different forms. These are foundation's most common forms:

• Liquid (sheer and light coverage)
• Cream (Creme to powder) and Cream Stick (medium to full coverage)
• Mousse
• Sheer tint (very sheer coverage)
• Mineral
  

Liquid:
Ideal for sheer to light coverage. Liquid foundation also adds a light moisturizing effect for dry and combination skin leaving the face with a slightly dewy finish. Liquid makeup is good around the eyes, where you may want a bit more coverage. It can be worn year-round if desired. However, during the winter season it is a great foundation to use due to the drier weather conditions.

You'll often see liquid makeup in waterproof or smudge proof or even 24 hour versions. But these specialized cremes contain oils and waxy ingredients, causing some sensitive wearers slight skin irritation. If you start having problems with breakouts when wearing waterproof makeup, switch to a non-waterproof type and see if it helps. With more people becoming aware of the importance of skin care to their overall health, companies are creating foundations made with organic ingredients such as essential oils, vegetable oils and minerals instead of chemical dyes. Ideal for: Dry and combination skin

Cream
Ideal for medium to full coverage. Creme and stick foundation, being the most dense out of all other foundation forms, is ideal for those who have a lot of blemishes that they want to cover and/or those who want to achieve an extremely flawless look. Creme and stick foundation, can be also be worn year-round if desired. However, during the spring and summer seasons it is a great foundation to use because it holds up longer. It is important that the face be properly and thoroughly moisturized before applying creme or stick foundation, because they both have the tendency to leave the face feeling or looking dry. Ideal for: Normal skin

Mousse
Mousse is ideal for light to medium, buildable coverage. Mousse has a whipped, soft, and light texture making it easier to apply in thin layers than liquid makeup, so you have more control. Mousse can be worn in any season. Ideal for: All skin types especially dry and aging skin.

Sheer Tint (aka Tinted Moisturizer)
Provides very light coverage. Works great when evening the skin tone. Because it is a moisturizer with a hint of foundation all-in-one, you will not have to apply moisturizer and then foundation. Keep in mind that the coverage is light. So unless your skin is very clear, you will need to apply another form of foundation to achieve that flawless look. Ideal for: All skin types.

Mineral
One of the latest foundation makeup types. Can be brushed on with a face powder brush in layers on the skin to achieve the desired coverage. Ideal for: People with allergies or sensitive skin

Beauty Tips:

1. It is important to take note of your skin type and your desired coverage amount when deciding what to buy. For those of you with very dry skin who still want medium to full coverage, I would suggest that you buy a liquid and a cream/cream stick foundation. Apply the liquid foundation first (Which, along with your moisturizer, will hydrate the skin and cover it lightly) Then, add the cream mainly in the "T" zone. If you have some blemishes you want to cover, collect some of the cream foundation product on your finger and dab it over the blemish (es). Continue to to do this until you're satisfied with the blemish coverage. Please make sure that you go along the edges of the circles where you've dabbed your cream and slightly pull the edges outward to eliminate the appearance of circles on your face.
2. Pressed powder IS NOT FOUNDATION!!!!!! Use your pressed powder to set your foundation. Powder on naked skin (meaning without foundation.) will do nothing but remove shine. It does not cover blemishes or even skin tone. And because it has nothing to adhere to, it will not remain in place on the skin.
3. All makeup must be set (meaning applying powder). There is a myth that is going around about cream to powder makeup doesn't require you to set it once applying it. THAT IS INCORRECT!!! Anything liquid in makeup must be set with powder. That goes for all forms except for, of course, mineral makeup. Without a powder set, the foundation will not stay in place. It will collect in the creases of the face, cause you too look very oily and will very easily transfer on to anything that has touched it.
   

"I don't like wearing foundation because....

• ..... the last time I wore it, I broke out really bad."
  

This can be the result of a few of different things. The makeup line might not be right for you. Different lines have different compounds to their makeup. Although the basic product compound is the same, their could be a few ingredients added to that specific line's product that causes your skin to react. It is important to know if you have any skin allergies. If you are allergic to SPF (Which is in a lot of makeup products), wearing a foundation that has SPF in it will cause your skin to react.

It even can be the combination of products in the foundation and your skin care products that are causing your skin's adverse reaction. If the ingredients in the skin care products and the foundation do not cohere, your skin may react. At this point, it is up to you whether to find a new skin care product or to change the makeup line. In other cases, it may well be the type of foundation you are using. Your skin may do well with a different type of foundation. In any event, if your skin breaks out from the foundation you're using, try a different type first, before moving to another brand.

• ...I never get the shade that fits me."

Finding your shade can be a tedious job and sometimes a nearly impossible one, with all the changes in the seasons, age, etc. One day you'll look one way, another, you'll look the next. For some women, their skin tone is uneven; certain areas on the face are darker than others. In the case of not being able to find your right shade, here are a few things to remember. Foundation has to be tested before purchased. A lot of people, because they don't want to spend a lot of money on makeup, will go to the Pharmacy to pick their foundation. And they get upset when they open it up and use it only to find that it's not the right shade. Very rarely will you find ONE pre-packaged product that fits your shade PERFECTLY. It's best to go to the a makeup store or department store makeup counter and be serviced by the professionals there. Sure, you may have to spend more money there than in the drug store. But, you will feel more confident in your purchase and will be a satisfied customer.

• ...I don't know how to apply it right to get the coverage I need."
  

If you are using a liquid foundation, I have found that it is best applied by using a brush and then using a makeup sponge in a blotting motion all over the face to eliminate the appearance of lines on the face. With the foundation brush, use "painter's strokes" all over the face, check, ears, and very little on the neck. Make sure that the foundation is even all over before proceeding to blot the makeup with the makeup sponge. Once you are satisfied with the outcome, proceed on.

If you are using a cream, mousse or sheer tint, I have found that it is best applied by using your fingers. Using your fingers to apply it allows you more control of the product and gives you a better ability to build the coverage as needed or desired. Using your middle and ring fingers, collect your foundation and with "quick and short, pull and drag" motions, blend it into the face, chin, ears, and very light on the neck. Build until you're satisfied with the coverage. Remember, less is more. It's easier to add more product than take off. So go easy on your foundation.

*** Dawn Adrienne is a licensed makeup artist, a costume and wardrobe stylist, an image consultant out of the Temple Hills, MD area. Contact her for an appointment today at (301) 523-0369 or at myspace.com/shessobeautiful.